Hanging 3d printer

My last 3d printer I built just produced too much noise, mainly from changing the tools during multi-filament prints

Finally, I made a construction where the printer hangs in big elastic suspenders.  This took away any noise that was previously transferred to the wall, so no more problems with noises throughout the house.  Pfff…

MMU2S on Ender3pro with TT SKR E3 mini motherboard

In 2020 I upgraded my Ender 3 with synchronised Z-axes and a new motherboard, the SKR Mini E3 V2.1.

The Ender 3 is very reliable and has been equipped with a direct drive bondtech extruder but still has the original hotend.

I chose the Ender3 to be the 3d printer on which I will attach the MMU2S.  This also means that I will have to exchange the hotend/extruder combination with a Prusa Mk3S version.

Started this on May 4th, 2021.  Only the printed parts were needed, all other parts were already available through sourcing form a.o. Ali.  I printed everything in ABS, mostly red.  For this I used 2 machines: The Twotrees Sapphire pro with enclosure for black ABS and the Voron 2.3 (300) for red ABS.

The motherboard that is also in the Ender3, SKR mini E3 V2.1.  I used this setup to test the MMU hard- and software together with the SKR mini E3 motherboard
The MMU2S on top of the Ender3, just next to the 6mm belt that connects both Z-leadscrews
The bondtech Prusa MK3S hotend/extruder combination, mounted on a 2020 mounting plate for the Ender3

There is a firmware version for the SKR mini E3 V2.1 on Github that makes use of the MMU2S.  I downloaded this version and uploaded it to the board via visual studio code maker, all works well in the test setup. Some tweaking was needed in configuration.h and in the advance config, since I am using the S-version of the MMU2 and the filament sensor was not standard ON. And- it appears that the communication port needs to change to the 2nd port. You can see it all at the Reddit page, the additional changes to the published config files are these (thnx to fixel112):

Excerpt from Configuration.h:

#define SERIAL_PORT -1

#define SERIAL_PORT_2 2 <————— This has been the issue. Uncomment that line.

#define BAUDRATE 250000

Excerpt: Configuration_adv.h


// Serial port used for communication with MMU2.

// For AVR enable the UART port used for the MMU. (e.g., mmuSerial)

// For 32-bit boards check your HAL for available serial ports. (e.g., Serial2)

//#define MMU2_SERIAL_PORT 2

#define MMU2_SERIAL MSerial2

//#define MMU2_RST_PIN 23

// Enable if the MMU2 has 12V stepper motors (MMU2 Firmware 1.0.2 and up)

//#define MMU2_MODE_12V

// G-code to execute when MMU2 F.I.N.D.A. probe detects filament runout


#define MMU2_DEBUG // Write debug info to serial output

#endif // PRUSA_MMU2

Next is to put everything physically on the Ender, and exchange the hotend/extruder.  Then, the settings for the extrusion lengths will have to be determined.  And- the buffer for the filament between the MMU2S and the filament spools has to be installed. As soon as I have it all properly installed, more pictures will follow!

I discovered that the dual display I now use for the Ender3 will only work for Marlin LCD and no longer for TFT, since the serial TFT pins will be used to drive the MMU2S unit.  I exchanged the TFT/LCD unit with the original Ender3 LCD, I kept this in storage and tested it today with the Ender mini E3 V2.1 , it works very well!

The twotrees SKR Mini E3 V2.1 motherboard is really perfect for the combination with the MMU2S and the new  filament sensor in the new hotend/extruder. The firmware has been updated to include the MMU2S and the AUX’s serial that was previously used for the TFT screen is now in use by the MMU!  It all works!!!

Now the next thing was to get the new extruder, F.I.N.D.A. and the filament sensr to work properly.

That took some time and next on the agenda is the filament management.

I already decided to go with the original Prusa filament box with plates to hold the retracted filament for all 5 spools. The spools themselves will hang at the wall, behind the printer.  I don’t have space for standing spoolholders.  Underneath the spools the filament box with plates gets its place on the wall and from there the 5 PTFE tubes will run to the MMU!

Penta extruder on A30M

Today I received my 5-in, 1-out hotend, non-mixing  air cooled with 1 nozzle and 1 heater//temp sensor.

I will install it on my A30M with the Duet2wifi board+extension board (5-fold with plug-in drivers). The A30M already has independant Z-stepper motors.

The Duet2wifi has 5 stepper ports, and the expansion board also has 5 stepper ports.  X,Y,2xZ, 5 Extruders is a total of 9 so this will indeed fit!

I will make new wiring for the 5 extruder steppers on top of the A30M frame with 5 bowden tubes to the hotend.  Since the hotend is non-mixing, this will be a  simple task to get into config.g.  For the slicer- it will also be easy. Just add the extruders to a total of 5 pieces. Add the correct filaments/temps/ no offset so set offset X and Y to 0..  The work will primarily be in  the tool changing files for T0-T5 where retraction- and extruding  settings will be needed.

independant Z-axis with FLY-CDY-V2

I replaced my Duet2wifi with the Mellow’s FLY-CDY-V2 motherboard

My cloned Duet2wifi MB that was running in my I3 bear suddenly refused to start up any longer, so I decided to put my recently purchased Mello FLY-CDY-V2 motherboard in the I3 bear printer.  Up to now, the makerbase Duet2wifi clones keep working properly and all other clones die on me…

During the replacement process I encountered the following issues:

  1. The microSD card sleeve on the board was loose on 1 side. I noticed that the board just got in a frozen status now and then.  The solution I finally discovered was that the microSD card holder had to be soldered back to the board, so the SD card made better contact with the little metal parts inside the holder.  Since the repair, no problems anymore!
  2. The connectors of the Fly vboard are standard X254 connectors, which I prefer.  But, the Duet uses propriatary ones so I had to replace all connectors.  But, I shortened all cables in doing this so I now have a very neat looking etup.
  3.  I had to print a new case for this board. I found only 1 available version that also had a fan in the cover.  Slick and well ventilated.  Available on Thingiverse!
  4. The available help on internet like Github pages are all well documented but you must be certain to choose the V2 version of the board for firmware and so on since the FLY-CDY (without V2) is a completely different board with another processor (LPC).  be aware that things are not comparable between the two boards.  The V2 is not just an upgrade!
  5. The rest on the board is quite clear with regards to usage and placement. All self-explainatory.
  6. The only way to connect your paneldue is via the serial 4-pin connector.  The block cables don’t work ‘as-is’.  The paneldue works flawless.
  7. The firmware and DWC software works very well on this STM32-based board. Also updating works flawlesssly.
  8. The difference that matters most to me is some little issues like different naming conventions, pin naming differences between the 2 boards and so on.  Nothing very difficult but is makes it impossible to swap your configs between the boards without some editing.  I would thing=k that cloning should be done more reliable, that would make the board sell better imho.
  9. There is no breakout/expansion port.  Due to the chosen processor, the potential of the Due2wifi with the many expansion possibilities is niot available on the CDY-FLY-V2.
  10. What you do get on the FLY-CDY-V2:
    1. Neopixel port up to 60 WS2812 LEDS (10 max or more with seperate 5V PSU)
    2. max 4 heaters ( 1 bed, 3 other) 
    3. max 4 temp sensors (1 bed, 3 others)
    4. max  3 controllable (PWM) fan outputs
    5. max 6 steppers with any sort of (pluggable) drivers (UART only, no SPI)
    6. max 6 end- (or other) switch inputs
    7. 12-36 Volt power input
    8. BLtouch port fully functional
    9. wifi unit
    10. DWC webbased DUET2wifi controllable
    11. Laser port
    12. A limited number of controllable GPIO pins are available on the EXP2 and EXP 1 port, this could be used for driving accessories like magnets, valves, extra LED’s and so on (via uplifters/Mosfet boards)
    13. Jumper for setting the power to the min/max switches at VCC or 5V (choose 5V!!)
    14. If you want, the option to have PT100 chip installed gives you 1 input for PT100
    15. The Duet2wifi firmware suite is available for this board through a specific development Github page, and as long as this is maintained updates for the board’s reprap firmware and DWC are available.

Dual carriage I3 Duet2wifi build and Config files

My dual carriage I3-bear based 3d printer is working very well. On this page I will share my latest configuration files, my build experiences like the used STL’s , schematics and so on.  Hope you enjoy!

The config.g for this build and the Duet2wifi is HERE

The Sys directory for the dual carriage build and Duet2wifi is HERE

The Macros directory for the dual carriage build and Duet2wifi is HERE

The build plan for the 2040 extrusion frame is HERE

2.1 version Prusa i3 MK3/MK3S Bear Z Extended 459mm Black kit 2040  Extrusion Anodized After Cut Prusa i3 MK3 Bear Profile Frame|3D Printer  Parts & Accessories| - AliExpress

The STL files for the X-axis carriages and carriages are HERE

All other needed STL files for the printer are HERE

The Duet’s case and 4.3 inch Paneldue’s case are HERE

The page of the working printer is HERE

The build plans for the electronics and Duet2wifi wiring schemes are HERE

Please donate $1 to my paypal account if you use (parts of) my developed materials so I can continue to share nice stuff for you to download


FLY CDY V2 SDcard content download

Since the FLY_CDY_V2 STM32 board comes without any firmware installed, I made a simple link for you to download and extract everything you need to a 2-16GB microSDcard. 

Just download, extract, burn as-is to SD and plug it in the board, fire the board up and all works!

Make sure you follow the guideline HERE for getting attached to the board via wifi by using a USB cable and YAT terminal on your PC to get the home wifi SSID and Password programmed to ROM into the board, AFTER you installed firmware by putting in the SDcard and firing it up.

The settings in config.g at the SDcard are made for a Cartesian XYZ machine with triple extruder.  This can all be changed to fit your build in config.g. 

For a delta, use THIS DUET2wifi DELTA config.g and change the pin_name of bed heater  according to the FLY_CDY_V2 name convention (thus: use bed instead of bed_heater).  

For more info about the board and connecting to the electronics, steppers, endstops, filament sensors, BLTouch, Neopixels etcetera go HERE

Please donate $1 to my paypal account if you use (parts of) my developed materials so I can continue to share nice stuff for you to download




Jan Griffioen

Mellow FLY-CDY-V2 motherboard

recently (3-2021) I have been setting up my new 3d printerboard from Mellow, an STM32 board that is named FLY CDY V2. It is fully compatible with Duet2Wifi and also uses its wifi-based 3d printer management system.

The config file I made for this setup is HERE

The FLY_CDY_V2 board comes completely empty so I added the firmware.bin in the /sys directory, after I had an empty SD card filled with the clean reprap directories and -files.

Next to the firmware.bin. also a board.txt is required to be available in /sys with some settings, with the following content:

//Config for fly-CDY
board = fly_cdyv2
led.neopixelPin = D.15;
//wifi pins
8266wifi.espDataReadyPin = E.10;
8266wifi.TfrReadyPin = E.12;
8266wifi.espResetPin = E.11;
8266wifi.serialRxTxPins = { D.9, D.8 };
heat.tempSensePins = { B.1 , A.3 , C.4 , D.14}; be aware that D.14 is not a temp pin but a heat pin, is this wrong??
stepper.numSmartDrivers = 6;
serial.aux.rxTxPins = {A.10, A.9};

This board.txt is already OK for 2209 drivers and for the use of the neopixels output.

In the pdf that is provided by Mellow on the Github page for the reprap STM32 boards, section FLY-CDYV2, everything is explained as to get wifi up and running,  configure config.g et cetera.  

In my config.g everything needed to work properly is already done, as is with my board.txt.

I made the config for a Cartesian printer with single X,Y,Z steppers and a triple hotend with 3 extruders, 1 heater and 3 nozzles.
Included is: Neopixels, BLTouch, 3 filament sensors on the X,Y- and Zmax inputs, active fans for hotend tool on fan1 and object on fan0
If so desired, sensorless homing is possible with the correct driver boards. In this version, 3 optical endstops have been used on inputs xmin, ymin and zmin.
Retraction is set OFF in this firmware by default, but may be swiched ON to make the triple hotend drip less (2 mm retract and -0.5 extrude without Z-hop), do experiment with these settings!
Please be aware that some pin names for the FLYCDYV2 board differ form the Duet’s naming convention like “bed” versus “bed-heater” et cetera.
Plus, some typical Duet2wifi extensions are NOT available like the GPIO bus.
The FLYCDYV2 has some interesting standard extra’s like the BLTouch connector with power, driver pins and Z probe pins, the Neopixel connector AND the 6 driver slots and 3 extruder heaters/sensors/fans!
It is quite simple to change this setup to a dual Z axis with independant Z-motors and either single extruder or a dual setup, single or dual nozzle, mixing or non-mixing.
Please see my complete ready-to-go config directory setups for this board HERE to get you  started! 

Please donate $1 to my paypal account if you use (parts of) my developed materials so I can continue to share nice stuff for you to download


Dual carriage I3 with Duet2wifi

My last build from scratch is the dual carriage I3-based printer as shown in the below picture, in the building phase.  This printer can be used either for 2 colors or for printing with soluble support PVA filament.

Get my build plans and Configuration files for Duet2wifi HERE

The box at the left rear is for the Duet2wifi board.  The 24V fan-regulated power supply is already positioned at the rear,  right side.

The greatest challenge with this build was the settings for the dual tools.

It took 2 months before I got it correct working with both PLA and/or Petg.

As with my previous dual color dual nozzle builds, the basics is very simple. Just define 2 tools with 2 heaters, 2 temp sensors, 2 fans et cetera.

I already envisioned the approch with the slicer(s): All offsets are done ONLY in firmware, NOT in the slicer! As far as the slicer(s) is/are concerned, the nozzles of Tool0 and 1 are at the same (X0/Y0) offset.

For the Duet, the only addition in the slicer is an M0 command as stop command for the printer.  Define 2 nozzles of 1.75mm without any offset and you’re done in the slicer.

Then agin, you will need to set everything in your config.g at the tool section like XYZ offset and so on.

I decided to get T0 as reference, and set everything to 0 there. X=0, Y=0 and Z=0.  Then, measure the differences at T1 versus T0 with calipers to start with and inport these values in the T1 toolsection in config.g.

Start a testprint and measure what to amend, take little steps and the metrics are done!

But- the hard part is- as I experienced- to get good prints without blobs and unexpected stringing, both incoming as outgoing (into and out of the printed object(s).

In the end, I just took the same approach as with the tool settings: As little as possible retraction settings in the slicer and all except the basic print retractions are now in the configuration files that are called upon Tool changes tpre.g,  tfree.g and tpost.g (for T0 and T1).

This means that you can play with retracting and extruding of filament length and speed directly at, during and after Tool changes.  And- in my experience it is all affected by the type of filament you use and the temperature you are at with the hotend. Also, the fact whether you use a lower temperature during waiting has great impact.

In my experience, you should finetune the config settings for the mentioned settings per object and per type of filament.

Therefore, I decided to used this printer for only 1 goal and make the settings perfect to accomplish this goal.  Right now, I have optimized this printer to print 1) PLA from 123print in the Netherlands, of a specific type and 2) PVA from the same supplier.  This gives me the possibility to print complex objects with soluble supports and it works extremely well at doing this!

PM: I also added LED lights on top of the printer as an integrated feature.  This makes use of a heater pin as GPIO (with a M42  P [pin] S[value intensity]) command), like the solenoids that I use to catch the carriages T0 and T1. To come from the 3.3V and max 1mA from the GPIO pin to the required 24Volts, I used small mosfet boards.  All programming is done in the Duet’s config and macro files, view the below example of my stop.g file which is called from the slicer’s stop setting: M0.

; stop.g
; called when M0 (Stop) is run (e.g. when a print from SD card is cancelled)
; Also called by slicer end gcode by M0
M400 ; Finish move queue
M117 Cool down ; Update the LCD screen with “Cool down”
M83 ; Extruder relative mode
G1 E-2 ; Retract filament 2mm for both extruders !!
M106 S255 ; Fan at 100 to cool nozzle and bed
M104 S0 T0 ; Extruder T0 heater off
M104 S0 T1 ; Extruder T1 heater off
M140 S0 ; Bed heater off
G28 X ; Home X
M220 S100 ; Set speed factor back to 100% in case it was changed
M221 S100 ; Set extrusion factor back to 100% in case it was changed
M42 P4 S0 ; Magnet T0 off
M42 P5 S0 ; Magnet T1 off
M104 S41 T0 ; set extruder T0 to cool down
M104 S41 T1 ; set extruder T1 to cool down
;M568 R41:41 S41:41 ; set standby and active temperatures for tools 0 and 1 (or single M568 T0 R41 S41)
M116 ; wait for Tools actions as specified in above M568 instructions
G90 ; Absolute positioning
G1 Y200 ; to get objects removed easier, move bed forward
M106 P0 S0 ; Fan L object T0 off
M106 P2 S0 ; Fan R object T1 off
G28 X ; Home X
M84 ; Steppers off
M98 P/sys/ledflash.g; Perform execution of ledflash.g in specified directory
M42 P6 S0.008 ; Led light setting almost OFF
M117 Jantec=done! ; Update the LCD screen with “Jantec=done!”

G1 X5 Y5 ; Move to corner
M140 S{print_bed_temperature} ; Set bed temp
T1 ; Select extruder 1 (or 0 depending on how your printer is set up)
M104 S{print_temperature} ; Set extruder temp
M116; Wait for temperatures


Please donate $1 to my paypal account if you use (parts of) my developed materials so I can continue to share nice stuff for you to download


Geeetech A30M rebuilt with Duet2wifi


The motherboard of my Geeetech A30M was broken, due to a defective Y-axis motor as I experienced later.  I ordered a new Smartto motherboard from Geeetech, installed it and it broke down again, due to the shortcut in the Y motor. Very strange defect since the smartto board uses plug-in drivers.  However, unrepairable and a real pity to now be stuck with 2 smartto boards without any use for them with both having a defect on the Y output.   Exchanging drivers did not help, cables exchange did not help either…

the original smartto motherboard

After replacing the Y-motor,I decided to go for a complete rebuild of the A30M.  In the old files you can still see the original smartto experiences on the A30M HERE.

Above, the movie of the first Duet2wifi experiences and the Chimera hotend.  Later, I decided to make the extruders direct-driven.

Get my  A30M config.g for reprap 3 Duet2wifi  for the original mixing hotend (1 nozzle, 2 extruders).

Get my hotend to motherboard cable and pin assignment  via the following link: 2020 12 09 improved A30M Extruder toolhead cable to board after adding dual hotend dual nozzle dual heater and dual temp sensors

The chimera hotend, combined with dual direct drive bondtech extruders

The inside of the box of the A30M Geeetech 330x330x350mm 3d printer with the PanelDue, Duet2wifi and the 5 ports extension board attached to the Duet

This is the Paneldue 4.3 inch touch panel as mounted in the A30M case, with a very slim bezel since the Paneldue is mounted flush with the front of the A30M case.

2GSpro Delta rebuilt with Duet2wifi reprap 3.2.2 auto config G32

Delta 2GS Duet2wifi

April 2021: My first 3d printer I bought back in 2014 finally got the Duet2wifi motherboard installed with 2 new extruders, piëzo Z-probe, new hotend, cabling, power supply, 24 Volt hotbed and 24 Volt fans.

The original motherboard is based on an Arduino Mega and had trouble keeping up with the latest firmware versions.

Besides that, I really want all my printers to have a sturdy wifi accessibility to manage them remotely.

The Duet has proved to be both reliable as easily configurable.

Paneldue 4.3 inch for Delta 2GSpro

The electronics has been rebuilt to 24 Volt and two Bondtech extruders have been installed, 1 left- and 1 right handed version. But- for the time being only 1 hotend got installed. I will install a properly working mixing hotend later. Or maybe a dual switching hotend, just to try it out.

Underneath the G2S pro delta with Duet2wifi board

One of the advantages of the Duet is the reprap firmware.  With a delta, reprap 3.2.2 has a G32 command which automatically configures all the difficult settings for the Delta printer like rod lenghts, endstop settings et cetera.  Provided that you have a bed.g file with enough 6 or 7-factor probe points.

I used the heater pins of the 2nd extruder as PWM power supply for my LED toplights.  If I ever install a dual hotend with 2 nozzles, I will add a Mosfet board  that converts 3.3 Volt to 24 Volt and then I will use a spare bed heater pin (most likely GPIO heater pin 4 or five) for the LED top light.  This works very well on all my other Duet boards where I connected LED lights to the printer . The LED’s are controlled via the PanelDue touchscreen (macros) and via the start/stop files.

All you need to measure yourself to  get the Delta configured is the Z-probe offset versus the nozzle position and the rest will be done through the G32 command.  The sequence is:  Perform G28, G32, M500, G29 and you’re done.  You will have to get the bed.g file for the G32 command to work as such from the escher3d website.  I used the 7-factor version.

PS: You don’t need to calibrate G29 at every print.  Please look at my homing file for the delta where-, after homing X-Y-X=Z to the top I only have a Z-probe G30 at the bed’s surface.  I will attach my final config.g code and all needed additional code for the delta with reprap 3.2.2 so you can benefit from my config.g for the Duet2wifi learnings HERE.  Cheers, Jan

Delta 2GS Duet2wifi
The full Delta2GSpro printer with topLED’s

PM: Things that are really needed: The Z-probe MUST be as close to the nozzle as  possible.  I had a BL Touch earlier which was positioned to the side of the center carriage and this never worked as supposed to.  It was positioned at 45 mm to the right and 25 mm to the front of the nozzle and this was clearly too far away to get a decent probing for G32.  With the BL Touch I never got good Delta basic settings.  The Piezo nozzle is a slim 6mm diameter version and has been strapped to the cold end of the E6D with a set of 1mm wires  and works perfect.

Prusa Bear

Juni 2020 ben ik, op basis van alle ervaringen met de 3d printers en laser cutters, een eigen ontwerp gaan maken voor een klein model 3d-printer.  uiteindelijk heb ik gekozen voor de Prusa Bear uitvoering, waarin ik alle verbeteringen gelijk meeneem.

Dus wel de 8mm rods voor X, Y en Z bewegingen maar ook het rigid frame met 2040 extrusie aluminium profiel.

Een 24 Volts voeding, hotbed en extruder en een Duet wifi motherboard met touchscreen bediening.

En ik maak m gelijk lekker stil. Geen jankende fans en geen jankende stappenmotoren.

Eerst het frame aangeschaft, daarna alle printable delen in PetG geprint op de Ender 3:

Boven:  Frame in elkaar gezet en de eerste delen gemonteerd (1-7-2020)

Onder: Alles gemonteerd (midden juli 2020), glasbed erop en eerste testprints gemaakt. Ben nog niet tevreden over de (on)gelijkloop van beide Z motors.  De Duett kan ze apart aansturen en dan moet ik eerst nog even 2 endstops maken op de Z assen, en strak gelijk maken.  Het worden optical stops vanwege de goede repeatability.  Dan kan ik homen en aslevelen op de endstops en bedlevelen met de BLtouch probe.  Weet even niet hoe dat in het NL heet, -).